About HEDERA HELIX (IVY) EXTRACT:
The ivy plant is an evergreen climbing plant and its botanical name is Hedera helix. It has a strong, ligneous stem and sticks to walls and trees by means of its hook roots.
The constituents of ivy are triterpenoid saponins, comprising the hederagenin glycosides, hederacoside C (5%), ß-hederin and the oleanolic acid glycosides, hederacoside, phenolic acids, flavonoids, malic acid and fatty acids. It further contains rutin and nicotifloroside in the flavonoids which are part of the phenolic compounds as well as caffeic and chlorogenic acids.
The active ingredients are the triterpenic saponins which are to be found in all parts of the plant. and ß and K hederin have been isolated and later the hederacoside. Hederacoside A is hydrolysable into glucose, arabinose and hederagenine, this lat compound belonging to the group of pentacyclical triterpenes; and B hederacoside can be hydrolyzed into rhamnose, arabinose and oleanic acid.
Ivy (Hedera helix) extract has a great application in cosmetics as a cellulitic agent due to its anti-inflammatory (1) and pain killer properties provided by the saponoside and flavonoids. The flavonoids exercise a protective action over the hair, which is why it is often included in hair care products.
Significantly Benefits of Ivy Extract for Cosmetics
Helps release fatty deposits from the cells
A major action of this herb is that of a circulatory compound which assists other components to be absorbed by the skin, whilst also helping to remove waste products and fatty build-ups from the tissue and helps release fatty deposits from the cells.(5) The saponosids in ivy help other components present to be absorbed by the skin and help the lipids (fatty contents) stocked in the adipocytes (fat cells) to go back into the blood stream and to be either used as a source of energy or to be eliminated.
As a Natural Surfactants
Saponosids in ivy are natural surfactants, which relieve congestion in the lymphatic system and make lipids soluble. It will also help to improve the elimination of cell metabolism residues.
Astringent and Vasoconstrictor Actions
The and ß hederins have been attributed with an astringent and vasoconstrictor action.
Tensioactive and Decongestive Properties
Ivy Leaf Extract tensioactive and decongestive properties are also used for facial and makeup products on skins with seborrheic tendencies.
Inhibitory Effect
It has been found that it is the sapogenines in ivy which have an inhibitory effect over the hyaluronidase enzyme, the enzyme that takes part in the turnover of the components in the vascular area.
The ivy, Hedera helix, Extract is used as a skin-conditioning agent - miscellaneous in cosmetic manufacture and chemically classed as a biological product. In folk remedies the ivy plant has become known as a herbal ingredient in cellulite and anti-fat remedies and treatments.and also used in relieve the discomfort and irritation of psoriasis, eczema, acne, and other skin-related conditions.
Skin Care
Naturally occurring nanoparticles isolated from English ivy (Hedera helix) have previously been proposed as an alternative to metallic nanoparticles as sunscreen fillers due to their effective UV extinction property, low toxicity and potential biodegradability.
Brief Description of Ivy Extract:
Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract is an extract of the leaves and stems of the ivy, Hedera helix.
INCI Name: Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract
CAS# 84082-54-2, 56-81-5, 7732-18-5, 122-99-6.
Properties: Astringent and soothing, anti-fungal, anthelmintic, molluscicidal, anti-mutagenic(3) as well as cellulite control properties.
Function(s): Skin-Conditioning Agent - Miscellaneous; ANTICAKING; ANTIMICROBIAL; ASTRINGENT; SKIN CONDITIONING; SOOTHING; TONIC. vessel protective, anti-oedema and antiseptic agent.(4)
Synonym(s): EXTRACT OF HEDERA HELIX; DRIED EXTRACT OF IVY; HEDERA HELIX EXTRACT; IVY LEAVES EXTRACT; IVY, HEDERA HELIX, EXT.
Specifications:
Appearance: Brown Fine Powder.
Parts being used: Leaves and stems.
Extraction solvent: water & ethanol
Odor: Characteristic.
Solubility: soluble in water.
Microbial Plate Count: Less than 1000 cfu/g.
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Ref.:
1) Indian J Pharm Sci. 2013 Jan;75(1):99-102. doi: 10.4103/0250-474X.113537. The Antiinflammatory and Antiarthritic Properties of Ethanol Extract of Hedera helix. Rai A1.
2) J Nanobiotechnology. 2013 Feb 1;11:3. doi: 10.1186/1477-3155-11-3. Characterization of physicochemical properties of ivy nanoparticles for cosmetic application. Huang Y1, Lenaghan SC, Xia L, Burris JN, Stewart CN Jr, Zhang M.
3) Contact Dermatitis. 2012 Jun;66(6):352-3. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0536.2012.02019.x. Allergic contact dermatitis caused by Hedera helix arborescens and not by Hedera helix L. Lurquin E1, Swinnen I, Goossens A.
4) http://www.cellulite.co.za/ivy-extract.htm
5) http://www.cellulite.co.za/ivy-extract.htm
3) Contact Dermatitis. 2012 Jun;66(6):352-3. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0536.2012.02019.x. Allergic contact dermatitis caused by Hedera helix arborescens and not by Hedera helix L. Lurquin E1, Swinnen I, Goossens A.
4) http://www.cellulite.co.za/ivy-extract.htm
5) http://www.cellulite.co.za/ivy-extract.htm
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